Chinese Chicken Salad

Ingredients:
For fried wontons (optional)
20 square wonton wrappers, thawed if frozen
About 2 1/2 cups vegetable oil

For salad
1/2 pound snow peas, trimmed (I used sugar snap peas instead)
1 lb Napa cabbage, cored, then cut crosswise into 1/3-inch-wide strips (about 6 cups)
1 (1-lb) head of romaine, torn into bite-size pieces (about 8 cups)
2 carrots, diced
1/2 cup chopped scallions
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted
2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
1/4 cup vegetable oil
6 cups coarsely shredded cooked chicken (about 1/2 a rotisserie chicken) (optional if using tofu)
1 lb extra firm tofu (optional if using chicken)

Make fried wontons (optional):
Cut wonton wrappers into 1/2-inch-wide strips and separate on paper towels.

Heat 3/4 inch oil in a wide 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat until it registers 350°F on thermometer. Fry strips, 5 or 6 at a time, gently turning over once with a slotted spoon, until just golden, 15 to 30 seconds per batch (some strips will fold and curl). Transfer to paper towels to drain, then season with salt.

Bake Tofu (if using)

Pat tofu dry and cut into strips or cubes. Toss gently with olive oil and soy sauce. Lay out on baking sheet and bake for approximately 20-30 minutes, or until slightly crisp on outside, but still soft inside. Let cool on baking sheets before removing.

Make salad:
Cook snow peas in a 4-quart pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about 1 1/2 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking, then drain in a colander and pat dry. Cut diagonally into 1-inch-wide pieces and put in a large bowl with cabbage, romaine and carrots. (I used sugar snap peas instead. I removed the strings and cut them up and added them raw. You could also try adding cucumbers.) Add scallions, cilantro, almonds and sesame seeds.

Whisk together soy sauce, lemon juice, sugar, vinegar, salt, and pepper in a small bowl, then add sesame oil and vegetable oil in a slow stream, whisking until sugar is dissolved and dressing is combined well. Toss chicken with 1/4 cup of dressing in another bowl. Toss baked tofu with 1/4 cup of the dressing in another bowl. Whisk remaining dressing (it will separate) and toss with cabbage/vegetable mixture. Add chicken and/or tofu. Sprinkle with wontons (if using).

Cooks' note: Wontons can be fried 1 day ahead and cooled completely, then kept in an airtight container at room temperature.